Overview

Puerto Nativo is a real find, a beautiful wooden house located in a remote area of Chiloé. It's more of a home-stay than a hotel where you can really gain an insight into Chiloté life. It also makes an excellent base from which to explore the rest of the archipelago. The charming owners are very keen to show guests the local culture and also provide personal tours throughout Chiloé. They also offer special fly-fishing packages.

Chiloe's culture is best observed in February and March, when many towns and villages celebrate their annual fiestas. Visitors can enjoy traditional foods like curanto (an ingenious feast prepared in the ground, with a mixture of meat, vegetables and seafood all thrown onto glowing coals and left to steam under nalca leaves), theatre, exhibitions and other events. Castro hosts the Festival Costumbrista Chilote, which lasts for 1 week, in February.

Summertime (December - March) is also when the flowers bloom, presenting a riot of colour along the roadside. Chiloé is renowned for its inclement weather. The western coast tends to be cold and wet and windy, even in summer; however, the eastern coast and islands are more sheltered. Summers in Chiloé are similar to those in England: a blazing sunny day can be followed by two days of rain, and sometimes summer just doesn’t happen!

Location

South America : Chile

Puerto Nativo is located 1300 km. South of Santiago, on mythological Chiloé Island, in the northern part of Patagonia. The land south of Puerto Montt crumbles into pieces to form the rural archipelago of Chiloé. Linked to the mainland by frequent ferries, the Isla Grande de Chiloé is a magical place of dense evergreen forests, undulating hills, small farms and picturesque fishing villages. Along its eastern shore are several tiny islands, many of which remain uninhabited. Being somewhat isolated from the rest of Chile and strongly influenced by colonial settlement and Huilliche indians, it is quite distinct from the rest of Chile. Spending a few days there will allow you to soak up its rich local culture, visit its unique wooden churches, sample excellent seafood and buy some cosy hand-knitted woollen jerseys. 

While the people of Chiloé are unmistakably Chilean they are also definitely Chilote. They have a rich folklore with many mythological animals and spirits (sit down with one of the locals to hear their fascinating stories). The Spanish, who arrived in the 16th century, and Jesuit missionaries who followed, constructed hundreds of small wooden churches in an attempt to bring God to a pagan land; the result was a mixing of Catholicism and pagan beliefs. These unique buildings have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

More than half the population relies on subsistence agriculture. Farms are very small and cattle-drawn wooden sledges are used to transport hay and dried seaweed (which is sold to be made into plastic). Farmers, especially those on the islands of Lemuy and Quinchao cultivate both the land and the sea. There are now an increasing number of salmon and oyster farms which take advantage of the sheltered waters. Traditional boat building and handmade knitwear are also important industries. Although the islanders are generally poor, they are some of the friendliest people you are likely to meet.

Dining

The greatest thing about having Chilean hosts who have lived in Italy is that it comes out in the food. Combine tasty Italian fare like fresh pasta with the natural larder that goes with the territory and the local Chilote influence, all enhanced by an array of Chilean wine and cider, and you can’t really go wrong.

Fish soups, traditional BBQ, spit roast pork and lamb and endless shellfish caught fresh from the sea, including natural oysters - these are the best in Chile caught from Chiloe island and renound by Oyster fanatics, are all part and parcel of Puerto Nativo fare. Other fresh fish available is mussels, crabs and even sea urchins. Add to these regular helpings of newly-caught salmon, trout and rovalos, compliments of Marco, and even home-smoked if preferred, fresh vegetables from the local market transformed into vegetarian dishes or tossed up into salads (note there is even a unique Chilote potato!), and it would seem fair to say that you'll be spoilt for choice.

And if you’re one of those people who simply can’t choose, then don’t – plump for the classical Chilote dish, Curanto en hoyo, recipe as follows: dig small hole, or ‘hoyo’; fill with fire; cover with palm leaves; throw a large helping of most of the above food in together; place more palm leaves on top; leave to steam gently for half an hour. Ingenious in its simplicity, and deliciously effective. All in all, you’ll probably find yourself eating more healthily than you ever have before. Breakfast is a straight-forward affair, with bread and jam accompanied by cheese and cold meats, whilst lunch is usually a picnic, or sampling one of the local restaurants mid-way through a day excursion.

Facilities

- A real ‘home-from-home’ – a much used expression, but in this case absolutely appropriate 
- Simply but tastefully decorated interiors, comfortable and inviting: in essence, a laissez-faire log-cabin 
- Sheer remoteness, which in turn ensures peace and tranquillity, and an easy affinity with nature 
- Hot water, including the rare experience of showering in warmed-up glacial spring-water 
- Beach at the bottom of the garden and enchanting combination of summer-time hammock and cosy wood-burning stove  
- Gift of warm, and particularly woolly, socks upon arrival – sets the tone perfectly and a very nice thought 
- Fresh flowers in every room, upstairs and down 
- Chiloe handicrafts, tapestries, carpets and basketry all part of the furniture 
- A good range of Chilean wine and after dinner aperitifs, plus special Chilean drinks (eg pisco sour, Vaina), including tips on how to prepare them! 
- Small library, with both reading and reference books, the latter including photography, art and cookery books, plus bird guides in English and Spanish

Activities

Chiloé Island is a paradise for all people who love peace, silence and fishing as a way to be closer to the nature. Our fishing season runs from November 15 to April 30. Our programs are specially designed to give our guests the opportunity to fish on various rivers, lakes, and streams in the region, in best-kept-secret locations where fishing is dynamic and exciting, with an interesting fish populations of wild rainbows and resident browns. A few coho salmons can be found too. Average sizes range from 4 to 8 lbs., depending on the time of the year and, naturally, the angler's skills. Fishing also includes a variety of other salt-water species, like: corvina and robalo.

At Puerto Nativo Lodge fishing is practiced wading and floating and it is strictly catch & release. Personal Guides are one for every two rods. Fly tying sessions are available and Marco provides expert tuition in tying local patterns. Your general angling day activities are centered on selected species to fish and type of venue (lake, river or stream). Venues are optional. Every spare moment is geared to provide the ultimate angling experience.

With areas pretty much as they were when Darwin wandered through, hiking in any of the National Parks or simply around the house, is a must; whether following the coast around Estero Paildad, heading inland to the hills and lakes of Pio Pio or Hillinco, or taking to the tepu trees, their cool forests home to countless birds and wildflowers. In Summer - Relax on Puerto Nativo’s beach, take up position in the hammock, warmed by the wood-burning stove and looking out upon spectacular views across the bay. Tours to the island’s many cultural sights, including historic churches, museums, local towns, markets and stilted fishing villages. Top of these has to be the town of Chonchi and its Church of San Carlos, a listed monument. Try your hand at writing – the surroundings are nothing less than inspirational. Shops and markets in the nearby towns, or the local craft fair, are pretty much guaranteed to produce some local handicrafts to take home. 


- Active and cultural day trips personally guided by Carmen or Marco. They offer a range of highly recommended all inclusive stays. Accommodation is based at the lodge and a combination of active and cultural day trips provide a rare insight into Chiloe's nature, history and culture. 

- With areas pretty much as they were when Darwin wandered through, hiking in any of the National Parks (or simply near the house) is a must; whether following the coast around Estero Paildad, heading inland to the hills and lakes of Pio Pio or Hillinco, or taking to the cool Tepu forests, home to countless birds and wildflowers. 

- You never know, you could even be rewarded for your efforts with gold, at Cucao beach, where Spanish conquerers washed gold in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. 

- Tours to the island’s many cultural sights, including historic churches, museums, local towns, markets and stilted fishing villages. Top of these has to be the town of Chonchi and its Church of San Carlos, a listed monument. 

- Shops and markets in the nearby towns, or the local craft fair, are pretty much guaranteed to produce some local handicrafts to take home. 

- Meeting the neighbours, learn about the local herbs and medicines, or share your wealth of knowledge with the local children (well, they’ll think so anyway). In schools with no electricity (and therefore no TV/video, let alone computers) and no real contact with the outside world, they’ll be interested in anything you might have to say! 

- Lovely scenery – if you are lucky with the weather, the snow-topped craters of the Andan volcanoes Michimahuida and Corcovado may even put in an appearance on the boat trips. 

- Longer days, to cram more in, yet paradoxically a generally slower pace of life. Meeting and getting to know the locals as friends – an unusual holiday experience.